materials

leather
leather is a byproduct of the food industry – otherwise discarded skins are transformed into a usable flexible material through the process of vegetable tanning. this slow natural artisanal method uses tannins extracted from plant material, (rather than metals used in more commercial tanning methods). all our leather is full grain, meaning absolute quality and durability because it is made from the strongest part of the skin – the very top, original layer.

for our first 2 bags we have carefully selected leather from artisanal tanneries in tuscany, the traditional hub of vegetable tanned leather production in italy. we only use suppliers that adhere to industry regulation and who are committed to minimising the environmental impact of production (including water purification).

our boxy leathers used to make the block bag are flat and smooth to the touch, holding their rigid shape, with clean-cut thick edges. these are sourced from tanneries established in the 1960s and 70s, who tan bovine skins of european origin.

our soft + grainy leather is tumbled to achieve a beautiful varying grain and soft hand feel, perfect for the chatter pouch. established in the early 1900’s our tannery is committed to certified traceability in their supply chain. they use mimosa, chestnut and quebracho (FSC certified) sourced from local italian suppliers to tan bovine skins of european origin.

natural canvas
bags are lined with a beautiful medium-weight natural canvas. this quality material is made from a blend of organically grown cotton (GOTS certified) and hemp – hemp being renowned for its efficient and sustainable growing methods.

woven in lancashire on a jacquard loom, it is finished in yorkshire – these are some of the last remaining textile mills and finishers in the uk. left natural in colour (unbleached and undyed), this canvas has a structured resilient hand feel, with natural variation of flecks across the weave.

our dust bag fabric is sourced from this very same supplier and made from a blend of organically grown cotton (GOTS certified) and linen (‘master of linen’ certified), producing a light weight natural canvas.

zips, fittings + other bits
we source the highest quality metal zips manufactured in italy. with individually polished brass base teeth, they are easy running, zipping to and fro smoothly and effortlessly. the finish is nickel free and they are fully coated with an anti-corrosion treatment preventing discolouration of the metal surface.

our dee rings are the ultimate in simple functional design and absolute quality. made in spain they are brass based with a palladium finish. our sam browne fastenings and chicargo screws, again simple and functional, are sourced from an equestrian supplier in the UK. these pieces are traditionally used in saddlery, with a hardy brass base, plated in a local foundry in walsall.

for strength and durability we use 100% recycled polyester thread (GRS certified), made using recycled PET bottles. our premium thread manufacturer produces a high performance thread with excellent tensile strength and wear resistance for durable seams. our branded woven labels are also made from 100% recycled polyester thread (GRS certified), made using recycled PET bottles.

the drawstring cord on our dust bags is made from organically grown cotton (GOTS certified). this raw material is spun and woven into chunky, strong cord in austria. we dye this by hand in small batches and stitch up the dust bags in the studio.

packaging
our sustainable paper inserts are FSC certified and made up from 25% leather byproduct residue (of traceable Italian origin) and 40% recycled wood tree pulp. produced in italy with 100% green energy, it is 100% recyclable, home compostable and biodegradable. with all this in the mix, it won the european paper recycling awards 2017.

card boxes are FSC certified and made from 100% recycled content in the UK. they are 100% recyclable, home-compostable and biodegradable. our box supplier is also carbon neutral.

glassine paper used as wrapping is acid free and made in germany from sustainable sources. it is 100% recyclable, home-compostable and biodegradable.

production

made in the midlands
bags are constructed by our luxury leather goods manufacturer in the west midlands, england. with over 140 years of experience in hand craft manufacturing skills, they specialise in working with vegetable tanned leather. traditionally used in saddlery, this leather takes a specific set of expertise to master its unique characteristics.

a small production line of leatherworkers use time-consuming hand worked finishes. edges are clean-cut stained, burnished and waxed – this bends and flexes with the leather over time, ensuring its enduring quality, (unlike more commercial acrylic edge paints that can crack and peel). combining traditional techniques with the efficient use of specialist machinery, they create products of the utmost quality and longevity.

block
the boxy exterior shape of the block bag is made by the traditional process of wet forming. in the studio flat panels of leather are dipped into a water bath to soften. once pliable but not soaked, each panel is skilfully pulled over birch wood blocks by hand – feeling, tweaking, stretching, rolling – each piece of leather acts slightly differently to the next. now shaped, they are left to dry for 2 days until rigid and set in their 3D form. finally, they are trimmed and cut to size.

the formed shells are sent to our luxury leather goods manufacturer in the midlands, where they construct and assemble the bag. they start by cutting out leather panels on the clicking machine, using specially made cutters. in a huge splitting machine pieces are then thinned down to just the right thickness. edges are stained, burnished and waxed to finish. all the many pieces are then carefully stitched together on a specialist sewing machine to bring the bag together.

chatter
to start the chatter making process, panels of soft + grainy leather are cut on the clicking machine, using specially made cutters. in a huge splitting machine pieces are then thinned down to just the right thickness – soft enough in the hand, but firm enough to hold the folds. edges are stained, burnished and waxed to finish. by an expert hand, chatter is folded and stitched into shape on a specialist sewing machine before its final quality check.